Washoku (n.): a study in savoring seasonality; a delicate art of preparation and presentation; an edible history of economics and trade, of social reform and devotion to craft; also called Japanese cuisine. As a complex and living pursuit, Japanese food is a diverse and uniquely spellbinding compendium of regional fares. However, often in America, it also has the misfortune of being categorically lumped into singular definitions of sushi or tentacled or dorm fare (think cheap ramen). In reality, Japanese cuisine finds its roots in the food culture of its early inhabitants, stressing locality and seasonality in all its ingredients.
At its nucleus, rice and miso hold the skeleton key to unlocking most of the menu structures and flavor profiles of Japanese meals. Rice, considered the cornerstone to every dining experience, provides a starchy canvas for fish, curries, seared meats, roasted vegetables, and native herbs. Miso, salty and funky with the umami of fermented soybean, encourages sea-inspired riffs off its saline backdrop, pairing well with foraged seaweeds, shellfish, and fresh greens. If Old MacDonald did have a farm, the Japanese would have a recipe or use for every stalk or stall—nothing goes to waste and no flavor is ever overlooked.
Acknowledging the global chart-topping hits of national cuisines does a disservice to the art of cookery, leaving much unsaid about the unsung plates and dishes that truly mark the traditional moorings of a meal. The same rule applies to Japan. Look past the stuffed maki rolls, oozing cream cheese and smashed avocado, pass on the Maruchan 24-packs of ramen in the grocery store, and, instead, head to the produce section. Pick out rich bundles of spinach, of carrots and zucchini. Ask the person behind the seafood counter for fresh caught prawns, whole lionfish, filets of tuna and salmon. Get the butcher to select the most marbled cuts of pork, the tastiest beef shanks, and some fine chicken breasts. Then, with a little handiwork and some soy sauce, you’ll be well on your way to the other side of the Pacific.
