The Birchwood of Polish Town

512 Pulaski Street

Riverhead, NY 11901

 

The Birchwood of Polish Town is located exactly where the name indicates, Polish Town, a small neighborhood within the town of Riverhead. Polish immigrants escaping religious persecution after the division of Poland settled here at the turn of the century. When these immigrants first settled, they formed a brotherhood among all those in their neighborhood while also tending to their farms (Polish Town USA). As time went on, they continued to build up their town, and in the 1920’s The Birchwood of Polish Town was erected. Since its start as a café more than 80 years ago, The Birchwood has become a staple in this small neighborhood. After the owner’s sudden death in 2014 and there was fear of closure, the restaurant’s staff worked to keep the doors open for the restaurant with such a rich history (Civiletti). Since its reopening that same year, the restaurant’s new owner, Danielle Sessa, has worked to not only keep its traditional Polish fare but to also become more inclusive by attracting a new crowd of Americans.

Having lived so close to the cultural mecca that is New York City, there were several options when choosing which Polish restaurant to eat at. There were two within thirty minutes of my house, but The Birchwood of Polish Town really caught my eye. Its clean-cut exterior felt welcoming as opposed to the cramped, bar-like atmosphere of the Polish restaurant thirty minutes in the opposite direction. What drew my eye to this establishment was its claim to serve Polish-Italian-American cuisine.  For someone with a family of picky eaters, this seemed like the perfect place to dine on a Thursday night. My dad, sister, and I would have the chance to dine on traditional Polish cuisine, while my mom could indulge in her typical order of a bacon cheeseburger with golden fries.

Pulling up to the restaurant at about 5:30 p.m. the town appeared to be extremely quiet and after standing in front of the restaurant, it seemed the atmosphere inside would equate to that of a small bistro or pub. Once my Dad opened the door, the music, laughter, and chatter from inside flooded out the door. Walking in, we were greeted with four pairs of eyes as the patrons at the bar gazed upon the newcomers. At that moment it became clear that the establishment we walked into was typically filled with locals and regulars. The door shut behind us and we stood patiently by the ‘Please allow us to seat you’ sign for no less than thirty seconds before a cheery, older gentleman came to seat us.

The booths were covered in a large green cushion that often slid since it was loosely connected to the seat. Atop the wooden table, there was a sheet of glass that shifted if anyone were to lean against the table. While the table itself offered minor inconveniences, I appreciated the owner’s effort in attempting to transform a 1920s restaurant into classier and clean-cut eatery. While waiting for the wait staff to arrive, I looked at the several decorations that lined the walls: music release posters, street signs, knick-knacks like a train set, and old photos from the restaurant’s history. While the restaurant did have a bar section, the wall separating the bar from the main dining area allows the restaurant to cater to a younger audience as well as the older regulars they’ve had for so long. It also allows those who have gone there for so long to share their favorite Polish restaurant with their children. While sitting in that booth, I felt like I was part of the tradition. The intimate atmosphere makes for those who visit The Birchwood of Polish Town a part of the family.

The wait staff contributed to the restaurant’s familial atmosphere with kind smiles and even kinder words. Before we even met our waitress, a waitress passing by made a joke with my family. At this moment, we were incredibly happy with the choice we made. Each waiter and waitress passing by was dressed cleanly and professionally. The men even wore bowties. Our first waitress was with us just until our appetizer was delivered but made sure we had everything we needed before she left. Our next waitress was just as phenomenal. Each time a new dish was brought to the table, she made sure the excess dishes were cleared. Every time a drink was low, she immediately asked if we wanted a refill. Our experience with the wait staff was superb and we never once had to wonder “When is our food going to get here?” Each of our three courses came at an acceptable rate, never once coming at the same time. The smiles the staff gave to us, surely transferred to our own faces by the end of the meal.

Reading the menu was like reading the owner’s cultural history. There were the perfect number of dishes for each of the cultures that left a significant impact on her life: Polish, Italian, and American. The appetizer list had a perfect combination of Polish and American cuisine. For my mother’s sake and to save our appetites for the Polish main course, we opted to order potato skins. Potato skins are an American favorite in our family and we had pretty high expectations. When they arrived at the table they looked less than appetizing, instead of the skin being a light brown it was also a light black. While the combination of cheese and bacon still retained its gooey deliciousness, the semi-burnt skin of the potato was off-putting.

For the main course, my dad, sister, and I all ordered Polish cuisine while my mother was able to order her traditional cheeseburger. My sister and I ordered the pierogi dinner which consisted of potato & cheese-filled pierogi topped with sautéed onions in a butter sauce and served with a side of creamy, bright-white sour cream. My father wanted a little bit of everything so he ordered the combo platter. He would look forward to the sampling of smoked kielbasa, pan-fried potato and cheese filled pierogis, golombki (heavily stuffed beef and onion filled cabbage) and crispy, lightly salted potato pancakes. What was most interesting about ordering these dishes was the option for sides. Customers can choose either a soup or salad and one of the following: potato salad, homemade macaroni salad, coleslaw, french fries, baked sweet potato fries, fluffy mashed potatoes, baked potato, veggie of the day, or penne or linguini with marinara. Overall, the menu had five basic Polish options for patrons to choose from. For a restaurant that lists Polish cuisine first, I would have hoped that they had more to offer.

   

As the food arrived at the table, the aroma of each Polish favorite filled our noses. While these dishes were lacking in color, this is quite typical of Polish cuisine due to the lack of available ingredients while the country was under communist rule. The first thing tasted were the pierogis. The first bite into the savory potato-filled, crispy dough pockets is somewhat of a surprise. Having made pierogis just two weeks before, I expected them to have more flavor than they did. Instead, the pierogis seemed to be lacking salt. While they weren’t as flavorful as I was expecting they were still addicting once I sprinkled some salt on top. These Polish potato dumplings tend to be filling, but the mere taste of them was irresistible, one bite after another heightened my taste buds to embrace the full flavor of the pierogi’s fluffy innards. The sides offered for the meal were odd. Perhaps it was just my choice of side, but mashed potatoes on top of pierogis were quite starchy. While potato dishes are a large part of Polish cuisine, I do wish they offered less starchy options for sides. I didn’t get to try much on my dad’s plate, but I found the same problem with the potato pancake, it did not have enough salt. Overall, my dad didn’t have many complaints stating the stuffed cabbage and the kielbasa were among the most delicious he’s had before.

My family and I left The Birchwood of Polish Town with the knowledge that we would venture out to Riverhead again to savor the delectable dishes the restaurant had to offer, whether they be Polish, Italian, or American. I would recommend that anyone looking for a cozy, family restaurant to enjoy their dinner should take the time to visit The Birchwood of Polish Town. The exceptional service, rich history, and delicious food make it worth the while. Polish blood bleeds through the heart of Polish Town at The Birchwood and just as Ellis Island welcomed cultures from across the Atlantic, The Birchwood of Polish Town embraces Italian and American cuisine to cultivate the perfect atmosphere of culinary acceptance.